Pruning mature trees is a vital practice for maintaining their health and structural integrity. While young trees often benefit from formative pruning to establish a strong framework, mature trees require a different approach. We're no longer shaping them, but rather working with their established form to promote longevity and safety. Think of it like a regular check-up for your trees.
One of the key reasons to prune mature trees is to remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches. These branches are not only unsightly but also pose a hazard. Deadwood can attract pests and diseases, which can spread to healthy parts of the tree. Weakened branches can break off in wind or storms, potentially causing property damage or injury. By removing these problem areas, we reduce the risk and improve the overall health of the tree.
Another important aspect of pruning mature trees is to improve their structure. This might involve removing crossing branches that rub against each other, creating wounds that are susceptible to infection. It could also involve thinning out the crown to improve air circulation and light penetration. This reduces the risk of fungal diseases and promotes healthy growth. Proper pruning can also help balance the weight distribution of the tree, making it less prone to toppling in strong winds.
It's important to remember that pruning mature trees is not a DIY project. It requires knowledge of tree biology, proper pruning techniques, and an understanding of the specific needs of different tree species. Incorrect pruning can actually harm the tree, creating large wounds that are slow to heal and making it more vulnerable to pests and diseases. It's always best to consult with a certified arborist who can assess the tree's condition and develop a safe and effective pruning plan. Think of it like seeing a specialist doctor – you wouldn't want just anyone operating on you, would you? Your trees deserve the same level of care. A healthy, well-maintained tree adds beauty and value to your property, so investing in professional pruning is a wise decision for the long-term health and enjoyment of your trees.
Tree Removal: When and How
Maintaining the health and structure of your trees is vital for both their longevity and the safety of your property. While we often focus on pruning and disease management, sometimes the best course of action is actually removing a tree entirely. It's not a decision to be taken lightly, but knowing when and how to remove a tree is a crucial aspect of responsible tree ownership.
So, when is removal necessary? Several factors come into play. A tree significantly damaged by storms, disease, or pests might be beyond saving. If the structural integrity is compromised, posing a risk of falling branches or the entire tree collapsing, removal is often the safest option. Similarly, a tree with extensive root decay can become unstable, threatening nearby structures or underground utilities. Sometimes, trees simply outgrow their space, interfering with power lines, blocking sunlight, or crowding other desirable plants. In these cases, removal might be the best solution for the overall health of your landscape.
The "how" of tree removal is just as important as the "when." Felling a tree is a dangerous undertaking and should never be attempted by an amateur. A falling tree carries immense force and can cause significant damage or injury if not handled properly. This is where professional arborists come in. They have the training, experience, and specialized equipment to safely remove trees of any size. They can also assess the situation and determine the best removal method, whether it involves sectional dismantling, crane-assisted removal, or traditional felling. Furthermore, a professional arborist can advise on post-removal considerations, like stump grinding and replanting.
Before deciding to remove a tree, consult with a certified arborist. They can evaluate the tree's condition, discuss potential alternatives, and provide a professional recommendation. While removing a tree can be a difficult choice, it's sometimes the best option for preserving the overall health and safety of your property. Remember, responsible tree ownership involves knowing when to let go, and ensuring the removal process is carried out safely and effectively.
Stump grinding and root removal are essential practices for maintaining the long-term health and structure of your landscape after a tree has been removed. While simply cutting a tree down to ground level might seem sufficient, the remaining stump and roots can pose several problems if left unattended. These issues can range from aesthetic concerns to serious threats to the health of your remaining plants and even the structural integrity of your property.
Aesthetics aside, a decaying stump invites pests like termites, carpenter ants, and beetles, which can then spread to healthy trees and even your home. Furthermore, the decaying wood provides a breeding ground for fungi and diseases, potentially infecting other plants in your yard. Stumps can also be a tripping hazard, especially for children, and can make mowing the lawn a difficult and dangerous chore.
Root removal, while sometimes considered a separate service, is often a crucial part of the stump grinding process. Left to decompose, roots can continue to sprout suckers, those annoying small trees that pop up around the original stump. These suckers drain resources from the soil, impacting the health of surrounding plants. Large, established roots can also disrupt underground utilities, sidewalks, and even foundations as they decay and shift.
Stump grinding addresses these problems by mechanically grinding the stump and major roots several inches below ground level. This eliminates the tripping hazard, reduces the attractiveness to pests and diseases, and makes the area ready for replanting or landscaping. The resulting wood chips can be used as mulch or added to your compost pile. While some small roots may remain, they will decompose naturally over time without causing further issues.
In conclusion, while initially stump grinding and root removal might seem like an added expense, it's a proactive investment in the long-term health and safety of your property. By addressing the potential problems before they arise, you're ensuring a vibrant, healthy, and safe landscape for years to come.
Emergency tree care after a storm can be a stressful but crucial aspect of maintaining tree health and structure. Storms can inflict a variety of damage, from broken branches and split trunks to uprooted trees and tangled power lines. Knowing what to do – and what not to do – in these situations can protect your property, prevent further harm to your trees, and most importantly, keep you and your family safe.
First and foremost, safety is paramount. After a storm, assess the area for downed power lines and other immediate hazards. Never approach or touch downed lines; contact your utility company immediately. Similarly, be extremely cautious around trees that are leaning precariously or have sustained significant damage. These can fall without warning, posing a serious threat.
Once the immediate danger has passed, you can begin assessing the damage to your trees. Minor damage, like small broken branches, can often be addressed with careful pruning. However, more extensive damage, such as large broken limbs, split trunks, or uprooted trees, requires the expertise of a certified arborist. They have the knowledge, skills, and equipment to safely handle these situations and determine the best course of action, whether it's cabling, bracing, or removal.
Resist the urge to attempt major tree work yourself. Improper pruning or removal techniques can cause further damage to the tree and create hazardous situations. A professional arborist can assess the structural integrity of the tree, identify potential weaknesses, and implement appropriate solutions. They can also advise on the best way to support a damaged tree during its recovery.
Finally, remember that prevention is key to long-term tree health. Regular pruning and maintenance by a qualified arborist can help mitigate storm damage by removing weak or dead branches and promoting strong, stable growth. This proactive approach can save you time, money, and stress in the long run. While we can't control the weather, we can take steps to ensure our trees are as resilient as possible when storms inevitably arrive.
Arboriculture (/ˈɑËÂÂÂÂrbÉ™rɪˌkÊŒltʃər, É‘ËÂÂÂÂrˈbÉâ€ÂÂÂËÂÂÂÂr-/)[1] is the cultivation, management, and study of individual trees, shrubs, vines, and other perennial woody plants. The science of arboriculture studies how these plants grow and respond to cultural practices and to their environment. The practice of arboriculture includes cultural techniques such as selection, planting, training, fertilization, pest and pathogen control, pruning, shaping, and removal.
A person who practices or studies arboriculture can be termed an arborist or an arboriculturist. A tree surgeon is more typically someone who is trained in the physical maintenance and manipulation of trees and therefore more a part of the arboriculture process rather than an arborist. Risk management, legal issues, and aesthetic considerations have come to play prominent roles in the practice of arboriculture. Businesses often need to hire arboriculturists to complete "tree hazard surveys" and generally manage the trees on-site to fulfill occupational safety and health obligations.[citation needed]
Arboriculture is primarily focused on individual woody plants and trees maintained for permanent landscape and amenity purposes, usually in gardens, parks or other populated settings, by arborists, for the enjoyment, protection, and benefit of people.[citation needed]
Arboricultural matters are also considered to be within the practice of urban forestry yet the clear and separate divisions are not distinct or discreet.[citation needed]
Tree benefits are the economic, ecological, social and aesthetic use, function purpose, or services of a tree (or group of trees), in its situational context in the landscape.
A tree defect is any feature, condition, or deformity of a tree that indicates weak structure or instability that could contribute to tree failure.
Common types of tree defects:
Codominant stems: two or more stems that grow upward from a single point of origin and compete with one another.
Included bark: bark is incorporated in the joint between two limbs, creating a weak attachment
Dead, diseased, or broken branches:
Cracks
Cavity and hollows: sunken or open areas wherein a tree has suffered injury followed by decay. Further indications include: fungal fruiting structures, insect or animal nests.
Lean: a lean of more than 40% from vertical presents a risk of tree failure
Taper: change in diameter over the length of trunks branches and roots
Epicormic branches (water sprouts in canopy or suckers from root system): often grow in response to major damage or excessive pruning
Roots:
Proper tree installation ensures the long-term viability of the tree and reduces the risk of tree failure.
Quality nursery stock must be used. There must be no visible damage or sign of disease. Ideally the tree should have good crown structure. A healthy root ball should not have circling roots and new fibrous roots should be present at the soil perimeter. Girdling or circling roots should be pruned out. Excess soil above the root flare should be removed immediately, since it presents a risk of disease ingress into the trunk.
Appropriate time of year to plant: generally fall or early spring in temperate regions of the northern hemisphere.
Planting hole: the planting hole should be 3 times the width of the root ball. The hole should be dug deep enough that when the root ball is placed on the substrate, the root flare is 3–5cm above the surrounding soil grade. If soil is left against the trunk, it may lead to bark, cambium and wood decay. Angular sides to the planting hole will encourage roots to grow radially from the trunk, rather than circling the planting hole. In urban settings, soil preparation may include the use of:
Tree wells: a zone of mulch can be installed around the tree trunk to: limit root zone competition (from turf or weeds), reduce soil compaction, improve soil structure, conserve moisture, and keep lawn equipment at a distance. No more than 5–10cm of mulch should be used to avoid suffocating the roots. Mulch must be kept approximately 20cm from the trunk to avoid burying the root flare. With city trees additional tree well preparation includes:
Tree grates/grill and frames: limit compaction on root zone and mechanical damage to roots and trunk
Root barriers: forces roots to grow down under surface asphalt/concrete/pavers to limit infrastructure damage from roots
Staking: newly planted, immature trees should be staked for one growing season to allow for the root system to establish. Staking for longer than one season should only be considered in situations where the root system has failed to establish sufficient structural support. Guy wires can be used for larger, newly planted trees. Care must be used to avoid stem girdling from the support system ties.
Irrigation: irrigation infrastructure may be installed to ensure a regular water supply throughout the lifetime of the tree. Wicking beds are an underground reservoir from which water is wicked into soil. Watering bags may be temporarily installed around tree stakes to provide water until the root system becomes established. Permeable paving allows for water infiltration in paved urban settings, such as parks and walkways.
Within the United Kingdom trees are considered as a material consideration within the town planning system and may be conserved as amenity landscape[2] features.
The role of the Arborist or Local Government Arboricultural Officer is likely to have a great effect on such matters. Identification of trees of high quality which may have extensive longevity is a key element in the preservation of trees.
Urban and rural trees may benefit from statutory protection under the Town and Country Planning[3] system. Such protection can result in the conservation and improvement of the urban forest as well as rural settlements.
Historically the profession divides into the operational and professional areas. These might be further subdivided into the private and public sectors. The profession is broadly considered as having one trade body known as the Arboricultural Association, although the Institute of Chartered Foresters offers a route for professional recognition and chartered arboriculturist status.
The qualifications associated with the industry range from vocational to Doctorate. Arboriculture is a comparatively young industry.
Pruning is a horticultural, arboricultural, and silvicultural practice involving the selective removal of certain parts of a plant, such as branches, buds, or roots.
The practice entails the targeted removal of diseased, damaged, dead, non-productive, structurally unsound, or otherwise unwanted plant material from crop and landscape plants. In general, the smaller the branch that is cut, the easier it is for a woody plant to compartmentalize the wound and thus limit the potential for pathogen intrusion and decay. It is therefore preferable to make any necessary formative structural pruning cuts to young plants, rather than removing large, poorly placed branches from mature plants.
Woody plants may undergo a process referred to as "self-pruning", where they will drop twigs or branches which are no longer producing more energy than they require. It is theorized that this process can also occur in response to lack of water, in order to reduce the surface area where water can be lost.[1] This natural shedding of branches is called cladoptosis.
Specialized pruning practices may be applied to certain plants, such as roses, fruit trees, and grapevines. Different pruning techniques may be used on herbaceous plants than those used on perennial woody plants.
Reasons to prune plants include deadwood removal, shaping (by controlling or redirecting growth), improving or sustaining health, reducing risk from falling branches, preparing nursery specimens for transplanting, and both harvesting and increasing the yield or quality of flowers and fruits.
Branch wood is an individual stem that grows off of another stem.
Trunk wood is the main stem of a tree which individual stems grow out of.
This refers to the area below the union of where branch wood attaches with the trunk/stem wood. This can often appear raised.
This refers to the junction between branch wood and trunk/stem wood. It usually looks raised. [2]
Pruning in an urban setting is crucial due to the tree being in drastically different conditions than where it naturally grows.[3]
Arborists, orchardists, and gardeners use various garden tools and tree cutting tools designed for the purpose, such as secateurs, loppers, handsaws, or chainsaws.[4] Additionally in forestry, pole pruners (averruncators in British English) and pole saws are commonly used, and these are often attached to poles that reach up to 5–6 m (16–20 ft). This is a more efficient and safer way of pruning than with ladders. These bush saws on polls have also been motorized as chainsaws which is even more efficient. Older technology used Billhooks, Kaiser blades, and pruning knives. Although still used in some coppicing, they are not used so much in commercial forestry due to the difficulty of cutting flush with the stem. Flush cuts happen when a pruner cuts into the cambium layer of the main trunk, which can happen when a pruner is not precise with pruning cuts, and removes a portion of the branch collar, which can put the tree at risk of entry cords from forest pathogens.
Although there are several different types of pruning, they can be simplified into two categories. One of which is cutting the branch back to a specific and intermediate point, called a "reduction cut", and the other of which is completely removing a branch back to the union where the branch connects which the main trunk, called "removal cut".[5]
A "reduction cut" is when one removes a portion of a growing stem down to a set of desirable buds or side-branching stems. This is commonly performed in well trained plants for a variety of reasons, for example to stimulate growth of flowers, fruit or branches, as a preventive measure to wind and snow damage on long stems and branches, and finally to encourage growth of the stems in a desirable direction.
In orchards, fruit trees are often lopped to encourage regrowth and to maintain a smaller tree for ease of picking fruit. The pruning regime in orchards is more planned, and the productivity of each tree is an important factor.
Branches die off for a number of reasons including sunlight deficiency, pest and disease damage, and root structure damage. A dead branch will at some point decay back to the parent stem and fall off. This is normally a slow process but can be hastened by high winds or extreme temperatures. The main reason deadwooding is performed is safety. Situations that usually demand removal of deadwood include trees that overhang public roads, houses, public areas, power lines, telephone cables and gardens. Trees located in wooded areas are usually assessed as lower risk but assessments consider the number of visitors. Trees adjacent to footpaths and access roads are often considered for deadwood removal.[8]
Another reason for deadwooding is amenity value, i.e. a tree with a large amount of deadwood throughout the crown will look more aesthetically pleasing with the deadwood removed. The physical practice of deadwooding can be carried out most of the year though should be avoided when the tree is coming into leaf. The deadwooding process speeds up the tree's natural abscission process. It also reduces unwanted weight and wind resistance and can help overall balance.
Preventative and structural pruning can be done to mitigate several issues young trees may have in the future. The structural pruning can reduce tree stress, increase the lifespan of trees, and promotes resistance to damage due to natural weather events. Attributes of trees with good structure include excurrent growth by having a single dominant leader, branch unions without included bark, and a balanced canopy. Structural pruning does this by developing or maintaining a dominant leader, identify the lowest branches in the canopy, prevent branches below the permanent canopy from growing too large, keeping all branches less than one half the trunk diameter, space main branches along one dominant trunk, and suppress growth on branches with included bark. [9]
Subordination pruning is done on limbs that will exceed 50% percent of the stem diameter. A reduction cut may be performed while still allowing about 50% of the branch. This is done to help maintain form and deter the formation of co-dominant leaders. Temporary branches may be too large for a removal cut so subordination pruning should be done to slowly reduce a limb by 50% each year to allow the tree to properly heal from the cut. As a tree becomes larger the slower it grows. Reducing the larger limbs for eventual removal will allow for the tree to promote new growth rather than using energy in encouraging unwanted limbs to continue to grow. Removing a large branch increases the likelihood of the cut to not heal properly which also may attract insects, diseases and fungus. [9][10]
Crown thinning is the removal of live healthy branches which increases light penetration, air circulation and reduces wind resistance which reduces risks from damage and the possibility of pest infestation. [11]
Crown raising involves the removal of the lower branches to a given height. The height is achieved by the removal of whole branches or removing the parts of branches which extend below the desired height. The branches are normally not lifted to more than one third of the tree's total height.
Crown lifting is done for access; these being pedestrian, vehicle or space for buildings and street furniture. Lifting the crown will allow traffic and pedestrians to pass underneath safely. This pruning technique is usually used in the urban environment as it is for public safety and aesthetics rather than tree form and timber value.
Crown lifting introduces light to the lower part of the trunk; this, in some species can encourage epicormic growth from dormant buds. To reduce this sometimes smaller branches are left on the lower part of the trunk. Excessive removal of the lower branches can displace the canopy weight, this will make the tree top heavy, therefore adding stress to the tree. When a branch is removed from the trunk, it creates a large wound. This wound is susceptible to disease and decay, and could lead to reduced trunk stability. Therefore, much time and consideration must be taken when choosing the height the crown is to be lifted to.
This would be an inappropriate operation if the tree species’ form was of a shrubby nature. This would therefore remove most of the foliage and would also largely unbalance the tree. This procedure should not be carried out if the tree is in decline, poor health or dead, dying or dangerous (DDD) as the operation will remove some of the photosynthetic area the tree uses. This will increase the decline rate of the tree and could lead to death.
If the tree is of great importance to an area or town, (i.e. veteran or ancient) then an alternative solution to crown lifting would be to move the target or object so it is not in range. For example, diverting a footpath around a tree's drip line so the crown lift is not needed. Another solution would be to prop up or cable-brace the low hanging branch. This is a non-invasive solution which in some situations may be more economical and environmentally friendly. [12]
Selectively pruning a window of view in a tree.
Reducing the height and or spread of a tree by selectively cutting back to smaller branches and in fruit trees for increasing of light interception and enhancing fruit quality.
A regular form of pruning where certain deciduous species are pruned back to pollard heads every year in the dormant period. This practice is usually commenced on juvenile trees so they can adapt to the harshness of the practice. This practice can be used for tree shaping but is also used in specific species which young branches can be sold for floral arrangements.
Deadheading is the act of removing spent flowers or flowerheads for aesthetics, to prolong bloom for up to several weeks or promote rebloom, or to prevent seeding.
In general, pruning deadwood and small branches can be done at any time of year. Depending on the species, many temperate plants can be pruned either during dormancy in winter, or, for species where winter frost can harm a recently pruned plant, after flowering is completed. In the temperate areas of the northern hemisphere autumn pruning should be avoided, as the spores of disease and decay fungi are abundant at this time of year.
Some woody plants tend to bleed profusely from cuts, such as mesquite and maple. Some callus over slowly, such as magnolia. In this case, they are better pruned during active growth when they can more readily heal. Woody plants that flower early in the season, on spurs that form on wood that has matured the year before, such as apples, should be pruned right after flowering as later pruning will sacrifice flowers the following season. Forsythia, azaleas and lilacs all fall into this category.