Finding the right insurance for a tree care business isn't as simple as picking the cheapest option. It's about finding a policy that truly understands the unique risks involved. That's where understanding specific coverage needs comes into play. You're not just running an office; you're dealing with chainsaws, climbing harnesses, heavy machinery, and potentially hazardous chemicals. A general business policy might cover a broken window in your office, but will it cover the damage if a falling branch takes out a client's roof? Probably not.
This is why specializing in tree care insurance is so crucial. A specialized insurer understands the nuances of your work. They know the difference between pruning a small ornamental tree and removing a massive oak towering over a house. They understand the risks associated with pesticide and herbicide application, recognizing the potential for environmental damage and liability claims. They appreciate the dangers inherent in tree climbing and removal, including falls, equipment malfunctions, and property damage.
A specialized insurer will ask the right questions. They'll want to know the height you typically work at, the types of equipment you use, and the specifics of your chemical applications. They'll use this information to tailor a policy that adequately covers your business. This might include coverage for specialized equipment, professional liability for incorrect pruning or misapplication of chemicals, and even coverage for the removal of a damaged tree after a storm.
Think of it this way: you wouldn't hire a plumber to fix your electrical wiring, would you? The same logic applies to insurance. You need a specialist who speaks your language, understands your risks, and can provide the specific coverage you need to protect your tree care business from the ground up. Don't settle for a generic policy; invest in the peace of mind that comes with knowing you're truly covered.
Ensuring your insurer understands the nuances of your tree care business is crucial for proper coverage and smooth claims processing. One effective way to gauge their expertise is by evaluating their experience with similar businesses and their track record with related claims. Think of it like choosing a surgeon – you'd want one specializing in the specific procedure you need, not a general practitioner. Similarly, an insurer familiar with the tree care industry will better understand the unique risks involved.
Asking potential insurers about their experience with other tree care companies is a good starting point. Don't just ask if they've worked with similar businesses; dig deeper. Inquire about the types of services those businesses offered, the size of their operations, and the specific coverage they provided. This will give you a sense of whether the insurer truly understands the complexities of your industry, from the equipment used to the potential liabilities involved.
Furthermore, exploring their claims history with similar businesses is invaluable. Ask about the types of claims they've handled, how efficiently they were processed, and the overall satisfaction of their clients. Were the claims related to property damage from falling branches? Were they equipment-related incidents? Understanding the insurer's experience with these kinds of claims can help you anticipate how they might handle a similar situation with your business. Online reviews and industry forums can also provide valuable insights into an insurer's reputation and customer service.
Ultimately, choosing an insurer specializing in tree care businesses, or at least demonstrating a strong understanding of the industry, can save you time, money, and headaches in the long run. It provides peace of mind knowing that your insurance provider understands the unique risks you face and is equipped to handle any potential issues effectively and fairly.
Finding the right insurance for a tree care business isn't as simple as grabbing the first general liability policy you see. You need coverage tailored to the unique risks you face – falling branches, property damage, equipment malfunctions, and even the occasional disgruntled squirrel. That's where specialized insurers come in. They understand the nuances of the tree care industry and offer policies designed to protect your business from top to bottom (or, perhaps more accurately, root to crown).
But how do you choose the right specialized insurer? It starts with comparing policy options and premium costs. Don't just focus on the bottom line. A cheaper premium might seem appealing, but it could leave you exposed if it doesn't adequately cover your specific needs. Start by making a list of the potential risks your business faces. Do you do a lot of high-risk removals near power lines? Do you offer tree health services involving pesticides? The answers will help you determine the types of coverage you require, such as professional liability, commercial auto for your chippers and trucks, and workers' compensation.
Once you have a clear picture of your needs, it's time to shop around. Reach out to multiple insurers specializing in tree care or green industries. Ask for quotes and compare the policy options side-by-side. Pay close attention to the coverage limits, deductibles, and exclusions. What exactly is covered, and, more importantly, what isn't? A lower premium might mean lower coverage limits or higher deductibles, leaving you to shoulder more of the financial burden in the event of a claim.
Don't hesitate to ask questions. A good insurer will be happy to explain the details of their policies and help you understand how they apply to your specific situation. Talking to other tree care professionals in your area can also be valuable. They can offer insights and recommendations based on their own experiences.
Choosing insurance can feel overwhelming, but by comparing policy options and premium costs from specialized insurers, you can find the right coverage to protect your tree care business and give you peace of mind knowing you're prepared for whatever comes your way, from storms to saws.
When choosing an insurer for your tree care business, specializing in the industry is only half the battle. You also need to be confident they'll be around to pay out a claim if something goes wrong. That means verifying their financial stability and reputation. No one wants to find out their insurance is worthless after a major incident.
So, how do you do this due diligence? Firstly, check their financial ratings. Independent agencies like A.M. Best, Standard & Poor's, and Moody's provide ratings that reflect an insurer's financial strength. These ratings are readily available online and give you a quick snapshot of the insurer's ability to meet its obligations. Look for ratings of A- or better for peace of mind.
Beyond the ratings, research the insurer's history. Have they faced any major financial difficulties in the past? Are there any pending lawsuits or regulatory actions against them? A quick online search can often reveal this type of information. Industry publications and online forums can also be valuable sources of insight. Talk to other tree care professionals. Word of mouth within the industry can be incredibly helpful. Ask your colleagues who they insure with and what their experiences have been.
Finally, don't be afraid to ask the insurer directly about their financial stability and claims-paying ability. A reputable company will be happy to provide you with information and answer your questions. They should be transparent about their financial performance and demonstrate a commitment to customer satisfaction.
Taking the time to verify an insurer's financial stability and reputation is crucial for protecting your tree care business. It's an investment in your peace of mind, ensuring that you have the right coverage when you need it most.
Pruning is a horticultural, arboricultural, and silvicultural practice involving the selective removal of certain parts of a plant, such as branches, buds, or roots.
The practice entails the targeted removal of diseased, damaged, dead, non-productive, structurally unsound, or otherwise unwanted plant material from crop and landscape plants. In general, the smaller the branch that is cut, the easier it is for a woody plant to compartmentalize the wound and thus limit the potential for pathogen intrusion and decay. It is therefore preferable to make any necessary formative structural pruning cuts to young plants, rather than removing large, poorly placed branches from mature plants.
Woody plants may undergo a process referred to as "self-pruning", where they will drop twigs or branches which are no longer producing more energy than they require. It is theorized that this process can also occur in response to lack of water, in order to reduce the surface area where water can be lost.[1] This natural shedding of branches is called cladoptosis.
Specialized pruning practices may be applied to certain plants, such as roses, fruit trees, and grapevines. Different pruning techniques may be used on herbaceous plants than those used on perennial woody plants.
Reasons to prune plants include deadwood removal, shaping (by controlling or redirecting growth), improving or sustaining health, reducing risk from falling branches, preparing nursery specimens for transplanting, and both harvesting and increasing the yield or quality of flowers and fruits.
Branch wood is an individual stem that grows off of another stem.
Trunk wood is the main stem of a tree which individual stems grow out of.
This refers to the area below the union of where branch wood attaches with the trunk/stem wood. This can often appear raised.
This refers to the junction between branch wood and trunk/stem wood. It usually looks raised. [2]
Pruning in an urban setting is crucial due to the tree being in drastically different conditions than where it naturally grows.[3]
Arborists, orchardists, and gardeners use various garden tools and tree cutting tools designed for the purpose, such as secateurs, loppers, handsaws, or chainsaws.[4] Additionally in forestry, pole pruners (averruncators in British English) and pole saws are commonly used, and these are often attached to poles that reach up to 5–6 m (16–20 ft). This is a more efficient and safer way of pruning than with ladders. These bush saws on polls have also been motorized as chainsaws which is even more efficient. Older technology used Billhooks, Kaiser blades, and pruning knives. Although still used in some coppicing, they are not used so much in commercial forestry due to the difficulty of cutting flush with the stem. Flush cuts happen when a pruner cuts into the cambium layer of the main trunk, which can happen when a pruner is not precise with pruning cuts, and removes a portion of the branch collar, which can put the tree at risk of entry cords from forest pathogens.
Although there are several different types of pruning, they can be simplified into two categories. One of which is cutting the branch back to a specific and intermediate point, called a "reduction cut", and the other of which is completely removing a branch back to the union where the branch connects which the main trunk, called "removal cut".[5]
A "reduction cut" is when one removes a portion of a growing stem down to a set of desirable buds or side-branching stems. This is commonly performed in well trained plants for a variety of reasons, for example to stimulate growth of flowers, fruit or branches, as a preventive measure to wind and snow damage on long stems and branches, and finally to encourage growth of the stems in a desirable direction.
In orchards, fruit trees are often lopped to encourage regrowth and to maintain a smaller tree for ease of picking fruit. The pruning regime in orchards is more planned, and the productivity of each tree is an important factor.
Branches die off for a number of reasons including sunlight deficiency, pest and disease damage, and root structure damage. A dead branch will at some point decay back to the parent stem and fall off. This is normally a slow process but can be hastened by high winds or extreme temperatures. The main reason deadwooding is performed is safety. Situations that usually demand removal of deadwood include trees that overhang public roads, houses, public areas, power lines, telephone cables and gardens. Trees located in wooded areas are usually assessed as lower risk but assessments consider the number of visitors. Trees adjacent to footpaths and access roads are often considered for deadwood removal.[8]
Another reason for deadwooding is amenity value, i.e. a tree with a large amount of deadwood throughout the crown will look more aesthetically pleasing with the deadwood removed. The physical practice of deadwooding can be carried out most of the year though should be avoided when the tree is coming into leaf. The deadwooding process speeds up the tree's natural abscission process. It also reduces unwanted weight and wind resistance and can help overall balance.
Preventative and structural pruning can be done to mitigate several issues young trees may have in the future. The structural pruning can reduce tree stress, increase the lifespan of trees, and promotes resistance to damage due to natural weather events. Attributes of trees with good structure include excurrent growth by having a single dominant leader, branch unions without included bark, and a balanced canopy. Structural pruning does this by developing or maintaining a dominant leader, identify the lowest branches in the canopy, prevent branches below the permanent canopy from growing too large, keeping all branches less than one half the trunk diameter, space main branches along one dominant trunk, and suppress growth on branches with included bark. [9]
Subordination pruning is done on limbs that will exceed 50% percent of the stem diameter. A reduction cut may be performed while still allowing about 50% of the branch. This is done to help maintain form and deter the formation of co-dominant leaders. Temporary branches may be too large for a removal cut so subordination pruning should be done to slowly reduce a limb by 50% each year to allow the tree to properly heal from the cut. As a tree becomes larger the slower it grows. Reducing the larger limbs for eventual removal will allow for the tree to promote new growth rather than using energy in encouraging unwanted limbs to continue to grow. Removing a large branch increases the likelihood of the cut to not heal properly which also may attract insects, diseases and fungus. [9][10]
Crown thinning is the removal of live healthy branches which increases light penetration, air circulation and reduces wind resistance which reduces risks from damage and the possibility of pest infestation. [11]
Crown raising involves the removal of the lower branches to a given height. The height is achieved by the removal of whole branches or removing the parts of branches which extend below the desired height. The branches are normally not lifted to more than one third of the tree's total height.
Crown lifting is done for access; these being pedestrian, vehicle or space for buildings and street furniture. Lifting the crown will allow traffic and pedestrians to pass underneath safely. This pruning technique is usually used in the urban environment as it is for public safety and aesthetics rather than tree form and timber value.
Crown lifting introduces light to the lower part of the trunk; this, in some species can encourage epicormic growth from dormant buds. To reduce this sometimes smaller branches are left on the lower part of the trunk. Excessive removal of the lower branches can displace the canopy weight, this will make the tree top heavy, therefore adding stress to the tree. When a branch is removed from the trunk, it creates a large wound. This wound is susceptible to disease and decay, and could lead to reduced trunk stability. Therefore, much time and consideration must be taken when choosing the height the crown is to be lifted to.
This would be an inappropriate operation if the tree species’ form was of a shrubby nature. This would therefore remove most of the foliage and would also largely unbalance the tree. This procedure should not be carried out if the tree is in decline, poor health or dead, dying or dangerous (DDD) as the operation will remove some of the photosynthetic area the tree uses. This will increase the decline rate of the tree and could lead to death.
If the tree is of great importance to an area or town, (i.e. veteran or ancient) then an alternative solution to crown lifting would be to move the target or object so it is not in range. For example, diverting a footpath around a tree's drip line so the crown lift is not needed. Another solution would be to prop up or cable-brace the low hanging branch. This is a non-invasive solution which in some situations may be more economical and environmentally friendly. [12]
Selectively pruning a window of view in a tree.
Reducing the height and or spread of a tree by selectively cutting back to smaller branches and in fruit trees for increasing of light interception and enhancing fruit quality.
A regular form of pruning where certain deciduous species are pruned back to pollard heads every year in the dormant period. This practice is usually commenced on juvenile trees so they can adapt to the harshness of the practice. This practice can be used for tree shaping but is also used in specific species which young branches can be sold for floral arrangements.
Deadheading is the act of removing spent flowers or flowerheads for aesthetics, to prolong bloom for up to several weeks or promote rebloom, or to prevent seeding.
In general, pruning deadwood and small branches can be done at any time of year. Depending on the species, many temperate plants can be pruned either during dormancy in winter, or, for species where winter frost can harm a recently pruned plant, after flowering is completed. In the temperate areas of the northern hemisphere autumn pruning should be avoided, as the spores of disease and decay fungi are abundant at this time of year.
Some woody plants tend to bleed profusely from cuts, such as mesquite and maple. Some callus over slowly, such as magnolia. In this case, they are better pruned during active growth when they can more readily heal. Woody plants that flower early in the season, on spurs that form on wood that has matured the year before, such as apples, should be pruned right after flowering as later pruning will sacrifice flowers the following season. Forsythia, azaleas and lilacs all fall into this category.
Arboriculture (/ˈɑËÂÂÂrbÉ™rɪˌkÊŒltʃər, É‘ËÂÂÂrˈbÉâ€ÂÂËÂÂÂr-/)[1] is the cultivation, management, and study of individual trees, shrubs, vines, and other perennial woody plants. The science of arboriculture studies how these plants grow and respond to cultural practices and to their environment. The practice of arboriculture includes cultural techniques such as selection, planting, training, fertilization, pest and pathogen control, pruning, shaping, and removal.
A person who practices or studies arboriculture can be termed an arborist or an arboriculturist. A tree surgeon is more typically someone who is trained in the physical maintenance and manipulation of trees and therefore more a part of the arboriculture process rather than an arborist. Risk management, legal issues, and aesthetic considerations have come to play prominent roles in the practice of arboriculture. Businesses often need to hire arboriculturists to complete "tree hazard surveys" and generally manage the trees on-site to fulfill occupational safety and health obligations.[citation needed]
Arboriculture is primarily focused on individual woody plants and trees maintained for permanent landscape and amenity purposes, usually in gardens, parks or other populated settings, by arborists, for the enjoyment, protection, and benefit of people.[citation needed]
Arboricultural matters are also considered to be within the practice of urban forestry yet the clear and separate divisions are not distinct or discreet.[citation needed]
Tree benefits are the economic, ecological, social and aesthetic use, function purpose, or services of a tree (or group of trees), in its situational context in the landscape.
A tree defect is any feature, condition, or deformity of a tree that indicates weak structure or instability that could contribute to tree failure.
Common types of tree defects:
Codominant stems: two or more stems that grow upward from a single point of origin and compete with one another.
Included bark: bark is incorporated in the joint between two limbs, creating a weak attachment
Dead, diseased, or broken branches:
Cracks
Cavity and hollows: sunken or open areas wherein a tree has suffered injury followed by decay. Further indications include: fungal fruiting structures, insect or animal nests.
Lean: a lean of more than 40% from vertical presents a risk of tree failure
Taper: change in diameter over the length of trunks branches and roots
Epicormic branches (water sprouts in canopy or suckers from root system): often grow in response to major damage or excessive pruning
Roots:
Proper tree installation ensures the long-term viability of the tree and reduces the risk of tree failure.
Quality nursery stock must be used. There must be no visible damage or sign of disease. Ideally the tree should have good crown structure. A healthy root ball should not have circling roots and new fibrous roots should be present at the soil perimeter. Girdling or circling roots should be pruned out. Excess soil above the root flare should be removed immediately, since it presents a risk of disease ingress into the trunk.
Appropriate time of year to plant: generally fall or early spring in temperate regions of the northern hemisphere.
Planting hole: the planting hole should be 3 times the width of the root ball. The hole should be dug deep enough that when the root ball is placed on the substrate, the root flare is 3–5cm above the surrounding soil grade. If soil is left against the trunk, it may lead to bark, cambium and wood decay. Angular sides to the planting hole will encourage roots to grow radially from the trunk, rather than circling the planting hole. In urban settings, soil preparation may include the use of:
Tree wells: a zone of mulch can be installed around the tree trunk to: limit root zone competition (from turf or weeds), reduce soil compaction, improve soil structure, conserve moisture, and keep lawn equipment at a distance. No more than 5–10cm of mulch should be used to avoid suffocating the roots. Mulch must be kept approximately 20cm from the trunk to avoid burying the root flare. With city trees additional tree well preparation includes:
Tree grates/grill and frames: limit compaction on root zone and mechanical damage to roots and trunk
Root barriers: forces roots to grow down under surface asphalt/concrete/pavers to limit infrastructure damage from roots
Staking: newly planted, immature trees should be staked for one growing season to allow for the root system to establish. Staking for longer than one season should only be considered in situations where the root system has failed to establish sufficient structural support. Guy wires can be used for larger, newly planted trees. Care must be used to avoid stem girdling from the support system ties.
Irrigation: irrigation infrastructure may be installed to ensure a regular water supply throughout the lifetime of the tree. Wicking beds are an underground reservoir from which water is wicked into soil. Watering bags may be temporarily installed around tree stakes to provide water until the root system becomes established. Permeable paving allows for water infiltration in paved urban settings, such as parks and walkways.
Within the United Kingdom trees are considered as a material consideration within the town planning system and may be conserved as amenity landscape[2] features.
The role of the Arborist or Local Government Arboricultural Officer is likely to have a great effect on such matters. Identification of trees of high quality which may have extensive longevity is a key element in the preservation of trees.
Urban and rural trees may benefit from statutory protection under the Town and Country Planning[3] system. Such protection can result in the conservation and improvement of the urban forest as well as rural settlements.
Historically the profession divides into the operational and professional areas. These might be further subdivided into the private and public sectors. The profession is broadly considered as having one trade body known as the Arboricultural Association, although the Institute of Chartered Foresters offers a route for professional recognition and chartered arboriculturist status.
The qualifications associated with the industry range from vocational to Doctorate. Arboriculture is a comparatively young industry.
Horticulture is the art and science of growing fruits, vegetables, flowers, trees, shrubs and ornamental plants. Horticulture is commonly associated with the more professional and technical aspects of plant cultivation on a smaller and more controlled scale than agronomy. There are various divisions of horticulture because plants are grown for a variety of purposes.[1] These divisions include, but are not limited to: propagation, arboriculture, landscaping, floriculture and turf maintenance. For each of these, there are various professions, aspects, tools used and associated challenges -- each requiring highly specialized skills and knowledge on the part of the horticulturist.
Typically, horticulture is characterized as the ornamental, small-scale and non-industrial cultivation of plants; horticulture is distinct from gardening by its emphasis on scientific methods, plant breeding, and technical cultivation practices, while gardening, even at a professional level, tends to focus more on the aesthetic care and maintenance of plants in gardens or landscapes. However, some aspects of horticulture are industrialized or commercial such as greenhouse production or CEA.
Horticulture began with the domestication of plants c. 10,000 – c. 20,000 years ago.[2][3] At first, only plants for sustenance were grown and maintained, but as humanity became increasingly sedentary, plants were grown for their ornamental value. Horticulture emerged as a distinct field from agriculture when humans sought to cultivate plants for pleasure on a smaller scale rather than exclusively for sustenance.
Emerging technologies are moving the industry forward, especially in the alteration of plants to be more resistant to parasites, disease and drought. Modifying technologies such as CRISPR are also improving the nutrition, taste and yield of crops.
Many horticultural organizations and societies around the world have been formed by horticulturists and those within the industry. These include the Royal Horticultural Society, the International Society for Horticultural Science,[4] and the American Society of Horticultural Science.[5]
There are divisions and sub-divisions within horticulture because plants are grown for many different reasons. Some of the divisions in horticulture include:
It includes the cultivation of all plants including, but not limited to: ornamental plants, fruits, vegetables, flowers, turf, nuts, seeds, herbs and other medicinal/edible plants. This cultivation may occur in garden spaces, nurseries, greenhouses, vineyards, orchards, parks, recreation areas, etc. [citation needed]
Horticulturists study and practice the cultivation of plant material professionally. There are many different types of horticulturists with different job titles, including: gardener, grower, farmer, arborist, floriculturist, landscaper, agronomist, designer, landscape architect, lawn-care specialist, nursery manager, botanical garden curator, horticulture therapist, and much more.[9] They may be hired by a variety of companies/institutions including, but not limited to: botanical gardens, private/public gardens, parks, cemeteries, greenhouses, golf courses, vineyards, estates, landscaping companies, nurseries, educational institutions, etc. They may also be self-employed.[citation needed]
Horticulture began with the domestication of plants 10,000–20,000 years ago and has since been deeply integrated into human history.[2][3] The domestication of plants occurred independently within various civilizations across the globe. The history of horticulture overlaps with the history of agriculture and history of botany, as all three originated with the domestication of various plants for food.[3] In Europe, agriculture and horticulture diverged at some point during the Middle Ages.[10]
Early practices in horticulture include various tools and methods of land management, with different methods and plant types used for different uses. Methods, tools and plants grown have always depended on the culture and climate.[citation needed]
Many traditional horticultural practices are known, such as the Indigenous peoples of pre-colonized North America using biochar to enhance soil productivity by smoldering plant waste[11] – European settlers called this soil Terra Preta de Indio.[12] In North America, Indigenous people grew maize, squash, and sunflower, among other crops. Mesoamerican cultures focused on cultivating crops on a small scale, such as the milpa or maize field, around their dwellings or in specialized plots which were visited occasionally during migrations from one area to the next.[13] In Central America, the Maya involved augmentation of the forest with useful trees such as papaya, avocado, cacao, ceiba and sapodilla. In the fields, multiple crops such as beans, squash, pumpkins and chili peppers were grown. The first horticulturists in many cultures were mainly or exclusively women.[14]
In addition to plants' medicinal and nutritional value, plants have also been grown for their beauty, to impress and to demonstrate power, knowledge, status and even wealth of those in control of the cultivated plant material. This symbolic power that plants hold has existed even before the beginnings of their cultivation.[15]
There is evidence that various gardens maintained by the Aztecs were sacred, as they grew plants that held religious value. Plants were grown for their metaphorical relation to gods and goddesses.[10] Flowers held symbolic power in religious rites, as they were offered to the gods and given in ceremonies to leaders to demonstrate their connection to the gods.[10]
Plant propagation in horticulture is the process by which the number of individual plants is increased. Propagation involves both sexual and asexual methods.[16] Sexual propagation uses seeds, while asexual propagation involves the division of plants, separation of tubers, corms, and bulbs using techniques such as cutting, layering, grafting.[17]
When selecting plants to cultivate, a horticulturist may consider aspects based on the plant's intended use, including plant morphology, rarity, and utility.[18] When selecting plants for the landscape, observations of the location must be made first. Soil type, temperature, climate, light, moisture, and pre-existing plants are considered when selecting plant material for the location. Plant selection may be for annual displays, or they may be for more permanent plantings. Characteristics of the plant – such as mature height and size, colour, growth habit, ornamental value, flowering time and invasive potential – finalize the plant selection process.[citation needed]
Environmental factors affecting plant development include temperature, light, water, soil pH, nutrient availability, weather, humidity, elevation, terrain, and micro-climate.[1] In horticulture, these environmental variables may be avoided, controlled or manipulated in an indoor growing environment.
Plants require specific temperatures to grow and develop properly. Temperature can be controlled through a variety of methods. Covering plants with plastic in the form of cones called hot caps, or tunnels, can help to manipulate the surrounding temperature. Mulching is also an effective method to protect outdoor plants from frost during the winter. Inside, other frost prevention methods include wind machines, heaters, and sprinklers.[19]
Plants have evolved to require different amounts of light and lengths of daytime; their growth and development are determined by the amount of light they receive. Control of this may be achieved artificially with fluorescent lights in an indoor setting. Manipulating the amount of light also controls flowering. Lengthening the day encourages the flowering of long-day plants and discourages the flowering of short-day plants.[19]
Water management methods involve employing irrigation and drainage systems and controlling soil moisture to the needs of the species. Irrigation methods include surface irrigation, sprinkler irrigation, sub-irrigation, and trickle irrigation. Watering volume, pressure, and frequency are changed to optimize the growing environment. On a small scale, watering can be done manually.[19]
The choice of growing media and components to the media help support plant life. Within a greenhouse environment, growers may choose to grow their plants in an aquaponic system where no soil is used. Growers within a greenhouse setting will often opt for a soilless mix which does not include any actual components of naturally occurring soil. These mixes are generally very available within the industry and offer advantages such as water absorption and sterility.[citation needed]
Soil management methods are broad but include the applying fertilizers, planned crop rotation to prevent the soil degradation seen in monocultures, and soil analysis.[19]
Abiotic factors such as weather, light and temperature are all things that can be manipulated with enclosed environments such as cold frames, greenhouses, conservatories, poly houses and shade houses. Materials used in constructing these buildings are chosen based on the climate, purpose and budget.[citation needed]
Cold frames provide an enclosed environment; they are built close to the ground and with a top made of glass or plastic. The glass or plastic allows sunlight into the frame during the day and prevents heat loss that would have been lost as long-wave radiation at night. This allows plants to begin growing before the growing season starts. Greenhouses and conservatories are similar in function but are larger and heated with an external energy source. They can be built out of glass but are now primarily made from plastic sheets. More expensive and modern greenhouses can include temperature control through shade and light control or air-conditioning and automatic watering. Shade houses provide shading to limit water loss by evapotranspiration.[19]
Commercial horticulture is required to support a rapidly growing population with demands for its products.[20] Due to global climate change, extremes in temperatures, strength of precipitation events, flood frequency, and drought length and frequency are increasing. Together with other abiotic stressors such as salinity, heavy metal toxicity, UV damage, and air pollution, stressful environments are created for crop production. This is extrapolated as evapotranspiration is increased, soils are degraded of nutrients, and oxygen levels are depleted, resulting in up to a 70% loss in crop yield.[citation needed]
Living organisms such as bacteria, viruses, fungi, parasites, insects, weeds and native plants are sources of biotic stresses and can deprive the host of nutrients.[21] Plants respond to these stresses using defence mechanisms such as morphological and structural barriers, chemical compounds, proteins, enzymes and hormones.[22] The impact of biotic stresses can be prevented using practices such as incorporate tilling, spraying or Integrated Pest Management (IPM).[23]
Care is required to reduce damages and losses to horticultural crops during harvest.[24] Compression forces occur during harvesting, and horticultural goods can be hit in a series of impacts during transport and packhouse operations. Different techniques are used to minimize mechanical injuries and wounding to plants such as:[25]
Clustered Regularly Interspaced Short Palindromic Repeats (CRISPR) has recently gained recognition as a highly efficient, simplified, precise, and low-cost method of altering the genomes of species.[26] Since 2013, CRISPR has been used to enhance a variety of species of grains, fruits, and vegetables. Crops are modified to increase their resistance to biotic and abiotic stressors such as parasites, disease, and drought as well as increase yield, nutrition, and flavour.[27] Additionally, CRISPR has been used to edit undesirable traits, for example, reducing the browning and production of toxic and bitter substances of potatoes. CRISPR has also been employed to solve issues of low pollination rates and low fruit yield common in greenhouses. As compared to genetically modified organisms (GMO), CRISPR does not add any alien DNA to the plant's genes.[28]
Various organizations worldwide focus on promoting and encouraging research and education in all branches of horticultural science; such organizations include the International Society for Horticultural Science[4] and the American Society of Horticultural Science.[5]
In the United Kingdom, there are two main horticulture societies.[citation needed] The Ancient Society of York Florists is the oldest horticultural society in the world and was founded in 1768; this organization continues to host four horticultural shows annually in York, England.[29] Additionally, The Royal Horticultural Society, established in 1804, is a charity in United Kingdom that leads on the encouragement and improvement of the science, art, and practice of horticulture in all its branches.[30] The organization shares the knowledge of horticulture through its community, learning programs, and world-class gardens and shows.[citation needed]
The Chartered Institute of Horticulture (CIH) is the Chartered professional body for horticulturists and horticultural scientists representing all sectors of the horticultural industry across Great Britain, Ireland and overseas. While horticulture is an unregulated profession in the United Kingdom, the title of Chartered Horticulturalist is regulated by the CIH.[31] The Australian Institute of Horticulture and Australian Society of Horticultural Science were established in 1990 as a professional society to promote and enhance Australian horticultural science and industry.[32] Finally, the New Zealand Horticulture Institute is another known horticultural organization.[33]
In India, the Horticultural Society of India (now the Indian Academy of Horticultural Sciences) is the oldest society; it was established in 1941 at Lyallpur, Punjab (now in Pakistan) but was later shifted to Delhi in 1949.[34] The other notable organization in operation since 2005 is the Society for Promotion of Horticulture based at Bengaluru.[35] Both these societies publish scholarly journals – Indian Journal of Horticulture and Journal of Horticultural Sciences for the advancement of horticultural sciences.[citation needed] Horticulture in the Indian state of Kerala is led by Kerala State Horticulture Mission.[citation needed]
The National Junior Horticultural Association (NJHA) was established in 1934 and was the first organization in the world dedicated solely to youth and horticulture. NJHA programs are designed to help young people obtain a basic understanding of horticulture and develop horticultural skills.[36]
The Global Horticulture Initiative (GlobalHort) fosters partnerships and collective action among different stakeholders in horticulture. This organization focuses on horticulture for development (H4D), which involves using horticulture to reduce poverty and improve nutrition worldwide. GlobalHort is organized in a consortium of national and international organizations which collaborate in research, training, and technology-generating activities designed to meet mutually agreed-upon objectives. GlobalHort is a non-profit organization registered in Belgium.[37]
This tree service quickly came out and gave me an estimate. Showed up as promised, completed the work in a timely manner and cleaned up afterwards. I got three estimates and this one was reasonably priced. I will definitely be a repeat customer.
This gentleman is legit. I can tell you that my husband and I hired him in April 20 and he sent us an email with a certificate showing us that his company was insured and he was very prompt. He came out and took a look at the property and the trees and gave us advice and a free quote. We quickly decided on the spot to hire him . We decided on a price and a time and a date was set . He returned my questions via email and text message right away. He showed up very early. His men did a fantastic job, cutting down two very seriously high trees that were looming over the roof of our house and have had us worried for so many years. I highly recommend this gentleman and his team. They are very conscientious and professional, and we will be using their services again.
All professional service. Timely, efficient, friendly. I had big old dead trees that I feared daily were going to come down. I called them in an emergency and they came the very next morning, no problem, no excuses. The guys were about service and me as a customer. They saw what I needed and went above and beyond to make sure I was a satisfied customer. I am a satisfied customer. I will use this company again and again. Thank you Rudy.
We recently had five large pine trees taken down in our front yard. We had three bids from different tree companies. We also wanted the stumps ground as well as chasing roots above ground. Rudy was fantastic and his workers were very skilled and the clean up was exceptional. We would highly recommend them and not hesitate to use them again.